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2003 Roasters Retreat - Recap Christopher E. Schooley Roaster, Intelligentsia Coffee and Tea The natural wonder that is the Aurora Borealis greeted us in Minnesota as we made our way to the third annual Roaster's Guild Retreat held this past weekend in the land of lakes. There were four in our crew arriving too late for opening ceremonies, meeting one more who was hosting a gathering in his lodge and mixing Brazilian liquor with sugar and lime. Our official arrival came the next morning as we separated into our respective teams for the Roastmaster Challenge. Teams were assembled so that each one had a balance of experience and perspective. Our trial this year: to take the winning Nicaraguan Cup of Excellence coffee provided graciously by Sr. Francisco Lanzas himself and fashion it using our collective skill into a prize winning roast. Coupled with the challenge was a forum on the accreditation program for specialty roasters and an update on the Roaster's Handbook, an introduction to the new and controversial SCAA cupping form, and a panel from Nicaragua discussing topics ranging from the current coffee crisis to research into what is making Nicaragua's coffee work and an in depth look into the different growing regions and their attributes. But enough with classes and panels -- we came to roast! Teams were given the opportunity to do some sample roasting on several tricky electric Probat sample roasters. The problem with electricity is control (chew on that for a moment), but with skill and determination the roaster makes the machine work for him, proving once again the superiority of man over machine. After wrestling with electricity it was on to the cupping table. Of course different teams had different ideas on roast levels and what not, but those familiar with these excellent Nics delved deep into the cup in search of the satiny flower petal body, the creamy caramel sweetness, and that bright and clear tone where the apricot lives. With our roast profiles squared away we progressed into the early evening with a happy hour in the lounge provided for by Ambex Roasters. A pile of meat for dinner and then dispersion into the night as the lodge hummed with the glow of communion. The guild, I should say, is filled with colorful creative people, which should come as no surprise. The new day began as groggy as I'm sure a few others were. The lakes of Minnesota had been lifted into the sky and the wind carried with it the cold, wet nails of not quite rain. This was of no concern while we were in the main lodge for the morning. The members of the first elected Roaster's Guild Executive Council were announced and introduced, and the sessions were engaging thanks to Mr. Tim Castle and his presentation on coffee processing and its effect in the cup, and to Mr. Von Roemer who led us in an open discussion on market forces, and of course to Dr. Stanley Segall who guided us through the hard science of our craft. During lunch Susie Spindler talked with us about the Cup of Excellence program, followed by Ted Lingle and Gerardo Leon York's explanation of the Q-market system (universal grading for trade through auctions). It was afternoon when the situation presented itself. Production roasters including an Ambex, a Diedrich, and three Probat probatinos (two of which were to be raffled off) were set up outside under the main porch with only a violently thrashing blue tarp as protection against the elements. While we got to know our machines, a crack team fought with the tarp in an attempt to festoon it in a more effective fashion to the deck. With the wind driving into our backs as we tried to shelter our cooling tray from the weather we manipulated the various roasters to do our bidding, producing a fair number of well-developed roasts. Once the team allotted 25lbs. of Sr. Lanzas' award winning Nic was accounted for we fled to the welcome confines of the cupping room to dry off and finalize our sample for submission. The submission sample was not by rule a one-roast affair. We were trying to present the finest that this coffee had to offer, which under the conditions could be a composite of multiple roasts in order to match our desired profile. Through extensive cupping, each team put together their sample, a Frankenstein built from the limbs of supermodels. Our final submission presented, we stepped out of the lab into a mild evening. Our force of nature had eased into a cool breeze curable by neat scotch, and the heavy clouds of the day reduced to ghostly orange brush strokes against a billowy purple canvas. During the pre-dinner croquet match we even witnessed a thin rainbow with a high arch while certain importers hustled the unsuspecting with the mallets. Another pile of meat and then we reach our apex, the fire, the fire, the fire. The lodge provided a fair amount of wood and a man with a banjo. He played some Hank, and some train medleys, but would not comply with our requests for "Classical Gas". More and more wood was tossed onto the flames as more and more people peeled themselves away off to sleep. It was probably 2 or 3 a.m. when people entered the lake. While some braved the chilly waters the rest were content on the dry dock gazing at the newly cleared night sky, free from the glare of city lights. We returned to the fire in a vain attempt to burn the rest of our woodpile. I must say that I felt surprisingly refreshed after a short nap, so it was off to breakfast and the final competition. Samples were designated with letters and randomized, making it possible that you may or may not even cup your own team's submission. Each team had four coffees to cup and grade. After time had run out and all the scores had been collected, the results were rushed off to be tallied by the accountants. In the meantime the teams convened for the raffle of the probatinos. Everyone's name card was placed in an empty burlap coffee bag and shuffled. Fortuna's arm, the arm of a woman, reached down into the paper mess with blind consideration. I knew it then. She withdrew her selection and handed it to the Probat representative. In his mild German accent he read my name from the lucky ticket. Cameras flashed as I shook hands and kindly thanked our raffle maiden. I do believe there is an exciting future for this little roaster. Once the crowd settled, each team gave a short description of what their goal with the Nic had been and what strategies they had applied. Finally the results had been counted and we readied ourselves once more for the thrill of chance. The team numbers were called out along with their ranking and cumulative score, counting down to number one. As it just so happens number one ended up being Team 1, winning by 0.2 points; or in other words, a nose. They collected their plaques and cupping spoon awards with smiling pride, champions. And then as weekends turn to busy production Mondays, it was quickly to our lodge to pack and checkout. We made our way to old friends and new, bidding farewell and urging contact and visits. I can't stress enough what an amazing group of people make up the Roaster's Guild. You do feel the richness of community empowering you to know your craft, to take pride in your art, to be a keeper of the flame. Stay gold, Christopher E. Schooley Roaster, Intelligentsia Coffee and Tea |
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